What does now smell like?

For centuries, fragrance creation has followed a well-trodden path, relying on time-honoured ingredients and techniques. These traditions have crafted a rich tapestry of scents, each tied to past memories, stories, and emotions. While 27 87 respects this heritage, its focus is firmly on capturing the vitality of the present.

Romy Kowalewski’s vision has been shaped by her lifelong passion for scent. Her journey began during her school years when her mother gifted her a handmade perfume: “Everyone at school recognized me by my scent. What I found most appealing was that this aroma was uniquely mine and couldn’t be associated with anyone else.” This early experience was the foundation for 27 87, where Romy realised that a fragrance is more than just a scent—it’s an experience. “The art of perfumery can’t simply be mastered with dedication and patience alone, as many of us have a dulled sense of smell,” she reflects. 

27 87 creates fragrances not for mass appeal but for self discovery. This meticulous approach is evident in every aspect of their process. The brand uses maceration—a slow ageing method that enhances depth and longevity—to ensure each scent reaches its full potential. “Once you have the perfume formula and mix the various oils, it must be macerated. If it’s a fresh perfume with bright notes, it will macerate for less time than a dense floral, which requires more time to develop its intricate facets. It’s an art with no strict rules.”

Before launching Per sē, the scent logo of 27 87, Romy had been creating them for other brands such as FC Barcelona, UNGER and Brooke Gregson. So it just felt natural to her to give a perfume brand its own olfactive logo. “The most enjoyable part of creating a perfume brand was capturing a concept in a smell. However, it is not until the fragrance is launched that the creative process is complete”. In the competitive world of perfumery, Romy emphasises that talent alone isn’t enough: “To stand out in the perfume industry, you need the right team.”

The production, marketing, and distribution of 27 87’s scents have been crucial to the brand’s growth, which now spans over forty countries. Barcelona, the company’s headquarters, plays a vital role in its success. “Although we’re a global company, we conduct everything here, where the industry is well-developed thanks to companies like Puig. The only thing not from Barcelona at 27 87 is me,” Romy laughs, noting her German origins. “There’s so much potential here that I want to explore.”

Romy’s concept of ‘chemistry as artistic expression’ fully comes to life through collaborations with renowned perfumers such as Shyamala Maisondieu, Jordi Fernández, and Gael Montero. These partnerships have resulted in distinctive, one-of-a-kind scents, blending technology with olfactory art. “I view perfumery as an art form. Before starting my own brand, I often wondered what the stories behind other perfumes had to do with mine. With 27 87, I wanted to create fragrances inspired by the present and daily life, with concepts anyone can relate to.” Art is a form of expression that always draws inspiration from different aspects of life. What makes art so unique is that it’s often shaped by the present moment, reflecting the society and environment it was created in. 

The brand’s fragrances serve as blank canvases that enhance and enrich the wearer’s experience of the present moment, rather than dictating what they should feel or remember. This is why the bottles and packaging are white: “The bottle absorbs the experiences of the wearer, rather than dictating how the scent should be associated,” summarises Romy. The beauty of art lies in how each person sees and interprets it. From the viewer’s perspective, art is experienced in a personal and individual way. It’s not tied to strict definitions or categories but is free from judgments and can be understood however the viewer chooses. Every person can find their own meaning in it, making it a truly open and ever-evolving form of expression.

With her practice, Romy invites us to embark on our own journey through the creation of new and unexpected perfumes from rare and uncommon ingredients. Her ‘scent of the present’ involves developing fragrances such as akigalawood, which is made out of in genetic bliss; the unusual nana-mint from Morocco in wandervogel, and the one that is in the oven now, inspired by the Asian fruit Durian: “I’m currently experimenting with this fruit which smells very different to us as Euopeans” she reveals, with a planned launch in May 2025.

By embracing the present, 27 87 is redefining the art of fragrance in the modern era. It’s a continuous co-creation between the scent and the individual, positioning 27 87 as a bold and innovative leader in contemporary perfumery.