“I wanted a name that left room for people to dream,” notes Yaeni Lee, the Founder of Tout Y Est, a leather accessories brand based in Seoul, Korea. “Tout Y Est is somewhat elusive – translating as ‘everything is there’ – I found the phrase in a French novel and the simplicity of it caught my attention as it implies endless possibilities, fitting for whatever we create.”
The Tout Y Est flagship store and Headquarters is surrounded by the mountains of northern Seoul, in an area populated with galleries rather than shops, which seems fitting for a brand that approaches fashion with a great deal of artistry and thought. “My mother greatly influenced my sense of beauty: her father was a sculptor and an avid collector, and she inherited his artistic spirit, which she passed on to me. She always reminded me to choose beautiful tools for daily use, and so it is this principle that has shaped my own approach to life and design.”
From their office, a light-filled space furnished with vintage pieces, Lee leads a small team that are equally dedicated to her vision, which she describes as ‘retro charm’. A reverence for the designs of the past – those objects that have remained steadfastly in good taste over many decades – has been a strong influence from the very beginning, and her desire to create products “that will remain timeless rather than following trends,” carries through from the smallest detail to the brand’s overarching mission.
The Sac Parallèle was the first bag that Lee created: a trim, structured silhouette whose rectangular form is held firmly in place by the two parallel metal rods at its mouth. The design was “an instant hit” and despite its undoubtedly mid-century aesthetic – its Grace Kelly elegance further accentuated by the vintage-processed leather – the Parallèle still sits comfortably in the present day thanks to its unique proportions. “The bag has an elongated shape that surprised the manufacturer so much that they double-checked the dimensions before commencing production. [For me,] it has always been my aim to incorporate a little twist – to maintain a classic look whilst adding details that set us apart.”
A development of this debut design, the Sac Paumelle takes the same feature, a brass rod, using it instead in the form of a hinge – a seemingly simple detail that has been deftly engineered and executed. Another more recent design, the Sac Coquille, swaps the rigidity of leather and metal for the fluidity of canvas. Meaning ‘shell’ in French, the Coquille follows the flat, fan-shape of a scallop shell – however, the addition of a leather drawstring enables a transformation: the conical form and gently curved top-line draws in to create a roomy bucket bag, evoking the casual insouciance of Jane Birkin’s straw baskets.
During the design process Lee looks to the archive, delving into the past, and yet she keeps one eye firmly trained on the future – mindful to choose materials and manufacturers that will ensure longevity, that will see each item acquire character and patina throughout the years, rather than becoming out-of-date or obsolete.
Having worked with the same manufacturer since the company was founded in 2019, Lee’s initial concept was to showcase Korea’s exceptional talent through the brand – but she has since “come to realise that quality transcends nationality, and so we now source outstanding craftsmanship from around the world and blend it into our DNA. [Ultimately,] our goal is to deliver high-quality items that can be cherished and passed from generation to generation – so while there’s no limit to what we might create in the future, we are committed to maintaining this philosophy in everything we do.”
