Sleepy, we arrived to Delhi at 3 a.m., where a wall of heat hit us like walking into an oven as soon as we had left the comfort of the airport’s air-conditioned halls. A team from Kamalan had come to take us to our hotel. The streets were so full of cars it could have been midday. The drivers changed lanes without notification, drove between them, some in the opposite direction, and then there she was: a cow in the middle of everything, oblivious, as if in the middle of a paddock. Welcome to India.